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". . . thoroughness and most impressive scholarship . . . much entertaining detail and . . . pleasant humour."  The Times Literary Supplement (London)Underwear  practical garments with a utilitarian function or body coverings that serve an erotic purpose? As this fascinating and intelligently written study shows, the role played by underclothing over the last several centuries has been a varied one.In a well-documented, profusely illustrated volume combining impressive scholarship with an entertaining, often humorous style, two distinguished clothing historians consider undergarments worn by the English over the past 600 years. Beginning with the Middle Ages, the authors cover centuries of clothing history, including the Tudor period, the Restoration, the Victorian and Edwardian eras, and the twentieth century up to the eve of World War II. Drawing on extensive, research, the Cunningtons illuminate the role and function of underwear: it protected the wearer against the elements, supported costume shapes, served as an erotic stimulus, symbolized class distinctions, and fulfilled other social, sanitary, and economic functions. Enhancing the detailed, comprehensive text are more than 100 period illustrations and photographs depicting a laced-up bodice of the twelfth century, embroidered linen drawers of the sixteenth century, a hooped petticoat support in bentwood (c. 1750), footed long drawers (1795), nineteenth-century bustles, early nineteenth-century corsets for men, "Frillies for the Tiny Lady" (1939), and much more. A bibliography, appendix, and index complete a valuable reference work that will appeal to costume historians, sociologists, and other readers.

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C. Willett Cunnington, PhiIlis Cunnington

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The early history of lace must be traced primarily through references in literature and household accounts and through representations in art, since, due to the fragility of lace, few early examples remain. When you add to this the fact that early accounts make little distinction between lace and other forms of needlework, it is easy to understand why the origins of lace cannot be pinpointed with any accuracy. This work seeks to fill that void with detailed illustrations and photographs of over 300 exquisite lace samples and designs created over the past 500 years. Delicate masterpieces depict human and mythical figures, filigree designs of hearts and flowers, beautiful floral and foliate motifs, and more. The royalty-free designs are drawn from elegant borders, edgings, collars, doilies, and much else.

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Perhaps best known as the intrepid adventurer who located the missing explorer David Livingstone in equatorial Africa in 1871, Henry Morton Stanley (1841-1904) played a major role in assembling the fragmented discoveries and uncertain geographical knowledge of central Africa into a coherent picture. He was the first European to explore the Congo River; assisted at the founding of the Congo Free State, and helped pave the way for the opening up of modern Africa.In this classic account of one of his most important expeditions, the venerable Victorian recounts the incredibly difficult and perilous journey during which he explored the great lakes of Central Africa, confirming their size and position, searched for the sources of the Nile, and traced the unknown Congo River from the depths of the continent to the sea. Accompanied by three Englishmen and a crew of Africans, Stanley left Zanzibar in 1874. He traveled to Lake Victoria, which he circumnavigated in his boat, the Lady Alice. Almost immediately, illness, malnutrition and conflicts with native tribes began to decimate his followers. Nevertheless, the explorer pushed on, also circumnavigating Lake Tanganyika, which he determined to be unconnected with the Nile system. Finally in 1876, Stanley was ready to undertake "the grandest task of all"  exploring the Livingstone (Congo) River. He sailed down the vast waterway to the lake he called Stanley Pool, then on to a series of 32 cataracts he named Livingstone Falls. Unable to go further by boat, Stanley continued overland, reaching the Atlantic Ocean on August 12, 1877. Mishaps, hostile tribes, and disease had killed his three white companions and half the Africans, but Stanley had attained his objective.His tremendous perseverance (his persistence led his men to nickname him Bula Matari  "the rock breaker") was complemented by Stanley's abilities as a keen observer and accomplished prose stylist. These talents are fully evident in this exciting narrative. It offers not only the action and adventure of a life-and-death struggle to survive in the African wilderness, but detailed descriptions of native peoples, customs, and culture; the flora and fauna of central Africa; and a wealth of geographical, ecological, and other information. Supplemented with 149 black-and-white illustrations and a foldout map, this monumental narrative will be welcomed by anyone interested in the European exploration of central Africa during the nineteenth century, the exploits of one of the great explorers of all time, and a breathtaking story of human endurance and achievement in the face of immense odds.

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The most influential work of its kind ever written, appraising the musical qualities and potential of over 60 commonly used stringed, wind and percussion instruments. With 150 illustrative full-score musical examples from works by Berlioz, Mozart, Beethoven, Gluck, Weber, Wagner, and others, and numerous smaller musical examples. Complete with Berlioz' chapters on the orchestra and on conducting. Translated by Theodore Front. Foreword by Richard Strauss. Glossary.

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The history of Western decorative arts is filled with splendid examples of ornamental ironwork  elaborately wrought designs for gates and fences, finials and posts, banisters, window grilles, signs and marquees, cathedral screens, and a host of other architectural and decorative features. This practical archive brings together nearly 500 outstanding examples of the ironmaker's art. Meticulously rendered in fine black-and-white line art, the designs have been reprinted from rare European and American catalogs and periodicals of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, including L'Art Pour Tous, Art Journal, The Illustrated London News, Harper's Monthly, and others.The designs illustrated here date from the Middle Ages through the nineteenth century, encompassing the ornate figuration of the Renaissance, the exuberant innovations of Baroque and Rococo artists, and the sinuous designs of nineteenth-century ironworkers inspired by the Art Nouveau aesthetic. Artists, architects, designers, and craftspersons will find this volume an ideal sourcebook of beautiful designs  all royalty-free  from a great tradition in the decorative arts.

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An Illustrated Guide to Linear Programming

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"I would not hesitate to recommend the book."  Industrial EngineeringLinear programming is an extremely effective problem-solving tool, with applications in business, agriculture, government, manufacturing, transportation, engineering, and many other areas. This very readable book presents an elementary introduction to linear programming in a refreshing, often humorous style.Requiring no math beyond high-school algebra, the book shows how linear programming can help anyone reach the optimum solution for a host of diverse problems. Chapter One introduces the basic concepts of linear programming and discusses its relationship to other mathematical models. Chapter Two discusses the formulation of linear-programming problems, including detailed treatment of problems involving diet, catering, assignment, and activity analysis. Chapter Three briefly introduces solution techniques for linear-programming problems, emphasizing the graphical approach. The final chapter describes and formulates a number of important applications, including network problems, traveling-salesman problems and the relationship between linear programming and the theory of games.Finally, a useful appendix offers precise statements of definitions, theorems and techniques, as well as additional computational procedures. Enlivened with over 70 excellent illustrations, this book represents a very accessible introduction to basic linear programming.

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English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century

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A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations

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The nineteenth century was a period of continuous change for women's clothing in England. The growing prosperity of the merchant class meant an ever-larger number of women for whom "dress" was a principal function in life, while the increasing availability of lower-priced ready-made garments enabled women of moderate means to purchase the fashions of the day. In addition, the development of the railways spurred the spread of new goods, while the removal of the tax on papers in 1854 produced an abundance of fashion magazines at cheap prices, bringing news of the latest styles to the multitudes. The magnificent array of ladies' fashions that characterized the century are on display in this remarkably complete decade-by-decade overview. Drawing almost exclusively on contemporary sources  fashion magazines, newspapers, rare period photographs, memoirs, Victorian novels, periodicals, and other publications, as well as firsthand observation of actual garments  the author describes and explains the couture that evolved in response to changing social conditions, technological innovations, and cultural developments. Over 1,100 line and tone drawings and photographs depict hundreds of outfits ranging from lovely morning dresses and starkly attractive riding outfits to elegant carriage costumes, opulent evening dresses, and exquisite bridal gowns. Full-page plates also depict period millinery, footwear, underclothing, and other apparel, while three useful glossaries provide descriptions of materials, definitions of technical terms, and more. Museum curators, vintage clothes collectors, and fashion historians will find this carefully researched and well-written book an indispensable tool for dating, identifying, and authenticating vintage clothing. Not only are styles described and illustrated in detail for each year; all the small details of construction by which specimens can be dated are given wherever possible. Moreover, designers, illustrators, and fashion enthusiasts will be delighted by the superbly detailed illustrations, which painstakingly document the fashionable finery of the Victorian era.

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"Ravel is one of the rare French composers who have left so strong an imprint on their art that music after them can never be the same."  Alexis Roland-Manuel. Maurice Ravel (18751937) ranks as one of the most original French composers of his time, a consummate craftsman who continually sought perfection of form and style, and whose unique harmonic language was unmistakably his own. Along with Debussy, he stands in the front rank of great modern composers for the piano and his piano music includes a number of masterpieces considered vital to the repertoire of any serious pianist. This handsome, affordable volume reprints a rich selection of his compositions: "Pavane pour une infante defunte," "Jeux d'eau," "Sonatine," "Miroirs," "Menuet antique," "Menuet sur le nom d'Haydn," "Gaspard de la nuit," and more.From the dazzling "Jeux d'eau," whose inventiveness and harmonic ingenuity opened a whole new era in sound, to the beloved "Pavane pour une infante defunte," to the suite "Gaspard de la nuit," music of legendary difficulty that every serious pianist eventually attempts, the piano music of Ravel is among the most recorded and performed in the repertoire. This inexpensive Dover edition makes that music available, at a reasonable price, to pianists who wish to play and study the works of a composer in the vanguard of "the new order of post-Lisztian piano writing."

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For many, Salvador Dali (19041989) represents the Surrealist painter par excellence, one whose work explored his own dream life, hallucinations, and fetishes in the process of objectifying the irrational elements of the unconscious. In this rare and important volume, the painter expresses (in his inimitably eccentric fashion) his ideas of what painting should be, expounds on what is good and bad painting, offers opinions on the merits of Vermeer, Picasso, Cezanne, and other artists, and expresses his thoughts on the history of painting. In a blend of outrageous egotism and unconventional humor, Dali presents 50 "secrets" for mastering the art of painting: "the secret of sleeping while awake," "the secret of the periods of carnal abstinence and indulgence to be observed by the painter," "the secret of the painter's pointed mustaches," "the secret of learning to paint before knowing how to draw," "the secret of the painter's marriage," "the secret of the reason why a great draughtsman should draw while completely naked," and many other Daliesque prescriptions for artistic success.Illustrated with the artist's own drawings, this volume is a fascinating mixture of serious artistic advice, lively personal anecdotes, and academic craftsmanship. It is, according to the San Francisco Chronicle, "in lay-out and clarity of design . . . a remarkable work of art in itself." Especially esteemed for its insights into modern art, 50 Secrets of Magic Craftsmanship is indispensable reading for any student of Surrealism or 20th century painting.

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American Victorian Costume in Early Photographs

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Over 280 rare photographs document the clothing of ordinary men, women, and children from the 1840s through the 1890s, in what appears to be their Sunday best. Bustles, hoops, pantalets, shirtwaists, top hats, waistcoats, bowlers, other Victorian-era attire, as well as hairdressing and tonsorial styles. Introduction to fashions of each decade.

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Everyday Fashions of the Forties As Pictured in Sears Catalogs

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Few publications illustrate so comprehensively what American men, women, and children wore in the 1940s than the Sears catalogs of those years, when the company's fashions typified the tastes of the American mainstream. This book is a compilation of 122 fully illustrated and captioned pages selected and reproduced from rare copies of Sears catalogs of the World War II era.Over 120 large-format pages have been carefully reprinted on high-quality glossy stock. They reveal in sharp detail the broad range of clothing fashions available during a period when wartime gasoline rationing made mail-order shopping reach new heights of popularity.Hundreds of accurately detailed drawings depict articles of clothing and personal accessories, including hats, overcoats, shoes, dresses, sportswear, undergarments, neckties, and more. Styles for children range from play clothes to "Sunday best." Men's clothing reflects the conservativism in male fashions during the period. Women's wear ranges from slacks, newly popular with women in the workforce, to dresses with plenty of "Oomph."Here is a richly revealing document that historians of costume and readers interested in fashion, social history, and Americana will find endlessly fascinating. JoAnne Olian, curator of the Costume Collection at the Museum of the City of New York, has written an introduction that appraises the fashions of the 1940s and the many ways in which they reflected the times.

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400 Traditional Tile Designs in Full Color

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During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, elaborately tiled walls and floors were revived as an essential element of interior decor. Now scores of richly decorative tile designs of the period have been reproduced in this permission-free collection, reprinted in beautiful full color from the plates of rare nineteenth and early twentieth century manufacturers' catalogs.The origins of these designs lie in the decorative-arts traditions of the civilizations of Islam, Greece, Rome, and Byzantium, among others. Through the centuries, designers have produced variations on early prototypes found in Roman and Pompeiian villas, Arab mosques, Moorish palaces, and other historic structures. More than 400 spectacular examples inspired by over 2,000 years of the most imaginative and artistic approaches to tile design are contained in this magnificent collection  one of the largest single-volume sources of decorative tile designs in color. Artists, designers, interior decorators, and craftspeople will find here a rich source of inspiring and instructive design. General readers interested in the arts will enjoy browsing through this treasury of intriguingly beautiful motifs.

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Greek Mathematical Thought and the Origin of Algebra

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Important study focuses on the revival and assimilation of ancient Greek mathematics in the 13th16th centuries, via Arabic science, and the 16th-century development of symbolic algebra. This brought about the crucial change in the concept of number that made possible modern science  in which the symbolic "form" of a mathematical statement is completely inseparable from its "content" of physical meaning. Includes a translation of Vieta's Introduction to the Analytical Art. 1968 edition. Bibliography.

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This entertaining, easy-to-follow book  is ideal for anyone who works with numbers and wants to develop greater speed, ease, and accuracy in doing mathematical calculations. In an inspiring introduction, science writer Edward Stoddard offers important suggestions for mastering an entirely new system of figuring. Without having to discard acquired information about mathematical computation, students build on the knowledge they already have, "streamline" these techniques for rapid use and then combine them with classic shortcuts.Initially, readers learn to master a basic technique known as the Japanese "automatic" figuring method  the principle behind the abacus. This method enables users to multiply without carrying, divide with half the written work of long division, and mentally solve mathematical problems that usually require pencil and paper or a calculator. Additional chapters explain how to build speed in addition and subtraction, how to check for accuracy, master fractions, work quickly with decimals, handle percentages, and much more. A valuable asset for people in business who work with numbers on a variety of levels, this outstanding book will also appeal to students, teachers, and anyone looking for a reliable way to improve skill and speed in doing basic arithmetic.

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These 25 chess games played between master and amateur were chosen, arranged, and annotated to help amateurs improve their games. What better way could the amateur have of learning to exploit the weak play of fellow amateurs than to study how a master would handle such situations? Selected by former World Chess Champion Max Euwe and Walter Meiden, a typical amateur player, the games point out graphically how the chess master takes advantage of characteristic errors of the amateur.In general, the games have been presented in order of the degree of skill of the amateur. The early games were played against beginners; later games, against "coffeehouse" players of various skill levels; the last games, against amateur "book" players. Each game, with commentary by Dr. Euwe, was chosen to illustrate a specific aspect of chess, from various openings to a number of typical chess situations. By carefully studying these games, the amateur player will learn how to recognize and avoid a variety of weak strategic and tactical moves.Dr. Euwe's helpful and informative commentary on each contest consists of a discussion of significant moves in the game, an analysis of the opening used and explanations of important chess concepts as they arise. Often, he includes a detailed analysis of tactical variations that might have been played as alternatives. The result is an indispensable aid for amateurs seeking to raise the quality of their games as well as a book that can be read with profit by chess players at every level of expertise.

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Painter, designer, and filmmaker Salvador Dali (19041989) was one of the most colorful and controversial figures in 20th-century art. A pioneer of Surrealism, he was both praised and reviled for the subconscious imagery he projected into his paintings, which he sometimes referred to as "hand-painted dream photographs."This early autobiography, which takes him through his late thirties, is as startling and unpredictable as his art. It is superbly illustrated with over 80 photographs of Dali and his works, and scores of Dali drawings and sketches. On its first publication, the reviewer of Books observed: "It is impossible not to admire this painter as writer. As a whole, he . . . communicates the snobbishness, self-adoration, comedy, seriousness, fanaticism, in short the concept of life and the total picture of himself he sets out to portray."Dali's flamboyant self-portrait begins with his earliest recollections and ends at the pinnacle of his earliest successes. His tantalizing chapter titles and headnotes  among them "Intra-Uterine Memories," "Apprenticeship to Glory," "Permanent Expulsion from the School of Fine Arts," "Dandyism and Prison," "I am Disowned by my Family," "My Participation and my Position in the Surrealist Revolution," and "Discovery of the Apparatus for Photographing Thought"  only hint at the compelling revelations to come.Here are fascinating glimpses of the brilliant, ambitious, and relentlessly self-promoting artist who designed theater sets, shop interiors, and jewelry as readily as he made surrealistic paintings and films. Here is the mind that could envision and create with great technical virtuosity images of serene Raphaelesque beauty one moment and nightmarish landscapes of soft watches, burning giraffes, and fly-covered carcasses the next. For anyone interested in 20th-century art and one of its most gifted and charismatic figures, The Secret Life of Salvador Dali is must reading.

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Paisleys and Other Textile Designs from India

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From ancient traditions of Indian art and handicraft, K. Prakash has created this unique collection of textile designs. This work contains 144 pages of ornamental design patterns collected from India's different regions, such as Banaras, center of fine arts, and exquisitely designed fabrics, as well as Kashmir, Punjab and other parts of North and South India. In addition to the rich floral patterns, this collection features unique paisleys, a pattern with roots in Mughal art and one that is as popular today as when it was introduced to the West in the early 18th century.Each design is clearly printed, featuring a wealth of intricate details that will make this book an invaluable resource for fashion designers, fabric painters, embroiderers, and other textile artists. Over 500 splendid motifs.

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Selected Problems and Theorems of Elementary Mathematics

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This book contains 320 unconventional problems in algebra, arithmetic, elementary number theory, and trigonometry. Most of the problems first appeared in competitive examinations sponsored by the School Mathematical Society of the Moscow State University and the Mathematical Olympiads held in Moscow. Although most of the problems presuppose only high school mathematics, they are not easy; some are of uncommon difficulty and will challenge the ingenuity of any research mathematician. Nevertheless, many are well within the reach of motivated high school students and even advanced seventh and eighth graders.The problems are grouped into twelve separate sections. Among these are: the divisibility of integers, equations having integer solutions, evaluating sums and products, miscellaneous algebraic problems, the algebra of polynomials, complex numbers, problems of number theory, distinctive inequalities, difference sequences and sums, and more.Complete solutions to all problems are given; in many cases, alternate solutions are detailed from different points of view. Solutions to more advanced problems are given in considerable detail. Moreover, when advanced concepts are employed, they are discussed in the section preceding the problems. Useful in a variety of ways in high school and college curriculums, this challenging volume will be of particular interest to teachers dealing with gifted and advanced classes.

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D. O. Shklarsky, N. N. Chentzov, I. M. Yaglom

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Finland's greatest composer and a major figure in the development of Scandinavian music, Jean Sibelius (18651957) is admired for his complete mastery of symphonic form. Of the seven symphonies he composed, each differs greatly from the others, for Sibelius rarely approached the symphonic "problem" the same way. Each work seems committed to the thoughts, feelings and logic of the moment. Sibelius's first two symphonies remain among his most accessible and popular. Of all his symphonic works, perhaps the First Symphony, composed in 189899, adheres most to classical form yet reflects the spirit of Nordic nationalism that came to be associated with the composers music. The Second Symphony, perhaps his most expansive and melodious work in symphonic form, demonstrates Sibelius's increasing command of orchestral form and scoring. These two major works are reprinted here from the definitive full-score editions published by Breitkopf & Hartel of Leipzig.

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Victorian London Street Life in Historic Photographs

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Classic document of social realism contains 37 photographs by famed Victorian photographer John Thomson, accompanied by individual essays  by Thomson himself or social activist Adolphe Smith  that offer sharply drawn vignettes of lower-class laborers, dustmen, street musicians, shoe blacks, and other street people. A treasure trove of astonishing historical detail.